Does Paint Stick To Shillac

1. Paint Stick Markers
2. Does Paint Stick To Shellac Nails
3. Does Latex Paint Stick To Shellac

We get a lot of questions from people new to chalk paint who want to know if it truly is a no-prep paint. And the answer is yes and no.Chalk paint adheres to furniture beautifully without the use of primer and (usually) no sanding. A quick cleaning is typically all you need. With that being said, there’s very rarely a piece of furniture that goes through our shop that doesn’t need some type of prep work before paint. Because when you’re working with used furniture, it’s typically been loved on for quite a few years. It’s scratched and peeling and dirty, and if you just whip out a brush and start painting, you probably won’t end up with the best results.

Shellac can be used as a binder coat for anything (I think). If you were going to put 2 coats of latex paint over the oil, you might be able to do 1 coat shellac and 1 coat latex. From contributor C: Your problem is not new or unusual. Top coat: If for some reason you want something else on the surface, you can use the shellac just for color coats, then top coat with anything. Shellac is the universal sealer, and anything will stick to it. I sometimes do this if I want the color, but also need the dependable semigloss of lacquer without the wax.

So we decided to put together a list of things to look for before you start painting furniture pieces and how to fix them.Chalk paint adheres to furniture beautifully without the use of primer and (usually) no sanding. A quick cleaning is typically all you need. With that being said, there’s very rarely a piece of furniture that goes through our shop that doesn’t need some type of prep work before paint. Because when you’re working with used furniture, it’s typically been loved on for quite a few years. It’s scratched and peeling and dirty, and if you just whip out a brush and start painting, you probably won’t end up with the best results.

Slapping peel and stick vinyl planks on the wall without construction adhesive is asking for trouble. “But I am going to nail it after!” Bahahaha! Then come back when they start popping off the wall and I’ll do my “told ya so” dance for you. Construction adhesive does not even guarantee it will stay on the wall.

So we decided to put together a list of things to look for before you start painting furniture pieces and how to fix them.Some links in this post are affiliate links. For more information, click.A Rough SurfaceThe first is the most obvious. When your piece has deep scratches, gouges or an uneven finish, it needs to be filled and/or sanded. Chalk paint is a thicker paint and can cover minor unevenness in the finish, but for the most part if you start with a rough surface, you’re still going to have a rough surface after paint.The Fix:Fill deep scratches with wood filler.

Is our favorite. It has a smooth consistency, is easy to work with and dries quickly. It also goes on purple and dries light tan or white so it’s easy to see when it’s dry.

Sand it smooth when dry and you’re ready to go.If a large portion of the surface is rough, flaky, or it has a sloppy existing paint job with lots of drip marks, we’ll smooth it out with our. We have three different power sanders and this one is by far my favorite. I rarely get the other two off the shelf. Trust me on this one. Ever.Loose Or Peeling VeneerIf your piece has veneer, carefully check to make sure none of the veneer is loose or peeling.

Any loose veneer needs to be fixed or removed prior to painting.The Fix:We wrote a step by step tutorial for filling missing veneer with Bondo. In addition to that technique, you can also use regular wood filler to fill small missing sections.If the veneer is too far gone to try repairing it, your best bet it to completely remove it. Most pieces have solid wood under the veneer so you can just remove it and paint the wood underneath without replacing the veneer. To remove the veneer pull off the loose sections. Then place a damp towel over the remaining sections.

Let it hang out for a bit and it will help loosen the glue. If it’s really stubborn, you can use a hot iron over the damp towel to steam it and loosen the glue.Wood Tannins Bleeding Through The PaintCertain types of wood and some water stains will bleed through paint.The Fix:If there’s just a small spot or two that’s bleeding, an easy fix it to spray it with a couple coats of. We love this stuff and always have it on hand. If it’s more than just a spot or two, or if I have a hunch before I get started that it’s going to bleed, I prime the entire piece with a paint-on primer like.S ometimes you don’t realize it’s going to be a bleeder until you already have a coat of paint on it and can see the stain seeping through.

Not to worry, you can prime right over your existing coat of paint (both paint on and spray primers), then keep painting when your primer is dry. I typically do two coats of primer on bleeders, but every once in a while you’ll have a piece that needs more.Oily SurfacesIf your piece has an oily finish, has been repeatedly cleaned with Pledge, or just has a super slick and shiny surface, your paint may not stick well.The Fix:There’s a few to choose from. If the surface is oily or has a lot of residue, try wiping it down with. For slick/shiny surfaces, clean it first then give it a couple coats of.

Or if it’s a real problem piece, you might have to sand it down to the raw wood.I recently painted the table in the photo above with chalk paint and the paint literally peeled off with my fingernails. This has never happened to me before and I have no clue what was on the surface. I ended up sanding it down to raw wood then gave it two coats of shellac before repainting it. I had no problems the second time around but I was kicking myself for not prepping properly and the wasted time and paint used.Hardware ChangesSometimes the existing hardware leaves an indentation in the wood. If you’re planning to change out the hardware, you’ll want to smooth out those indentations so they’re not visible around the new hardware.The Fix:If you’re reusing the same hardware, or if the new hardware is large enough to cover the indentations, you don’t have to do anything. If you do need to fix it, sometimes a light sanding will even it out, or you can use.One more word about hardware changes if you’re just changing out a knob with a single screw, you’re fine. But if you’re replacing handles with two screws on the back, keep in mind that the distance between the screws is different on a lot of hardware, and your new hardware will probably not fit in the existing holes.

I recommend trying to find your new handles before you start painting. If they happen to fit in the existing holes, you’re good. If not, you can fill them in with wood filler before you start painting. If you don’t have your new hardware yet, I would consider just filling the holes before you start painting. There is nothing worse than finishing a gorgeous paint job only to find out your new hardware doesn’t fit in the existing holes and now you have to fill, sand, and repaint the old holes.

I’ve been known to drag a whole drawer into Hobby Lobby to choose new hardware. We have a huge list of places to find furniture hardware.Smelly FurnitureSome used furniture pieces smell really musty or like cigarette smoke. The best remedy I’ve found for stinky furniture is a thorough cleaning and some time to bake in the sun. If that doesn’t work and you’re having trouble ridding the odor, try just going ahead and priming and painting the whole piece, inside and out. Often times a good primer will seal in the odors. Is supposed to be better at sealing in odors than. They’re both paint-on primers, but BIN is shellac based and 123 is water based.

I will say that BIN is not my favorite primer to work with because it’s super thin and runny, and because it’s not water based so not as easy to cleanup. But, since we’re talking about stink-blocking factor, I thought I should mention it.Moral of the story: We love chalk paint. It’s a fantastic product, but your finished piece will only be as good as the base you started with. Taking a little extra time at the beginning will ensure your finished piece will look beautiful and professional.Have a question about prepping for chalk paint that we didn’t cover?

Leave a comment or feel free to email us with your questions.Looking for more info on chalk paint? Check out our and our. If you found this post helpful, I’d appreciate if you pinned it!

Just click the button to pin:Want to hang out more? Sign up to get our email updates.Or join us on social media:, &You may also enjoy:New to painting? Check out our. Shellac (like zinsser bullseye shellac) can be used as a primer under chalk paint. I use it often, especially on pieces that need priming that I’m planning to distress because it dries clear. Every piece is different, many don’t require any prep before painting but some do. If the table set will get heavy use I think it’s a good idea to prime it.

You could also paint a small test patch then try scratching it with your fingernail when it’s dry. If it peels up easily it’s a good indication you’ll need to sand and/or prime. If it seems we’ll adhered you’re probably good to go. I would also suggest sealing a table set with something stronger than wax, such as a water based poly. General finishes high performance top coat is one of my favorites.

Hope that helps! Hey Mallorie!

My guess is the surface either wasn’t completely dry or some of the soap didn’t get rinsed off. I would sand the areas where it’s cracking, clean the surface again with water, then make sure it’s completely dry before you repaint.

If you’re still having trouble spots, sand those spots again then give them a couple coats of Zinsser shellac and repaint. I know how frustrating it is when the paint isn’t behaving. If you’re still having issues after those suggestions shoot me a message and we’ll try to figure it out.

Thank you for responding. That’s really useful. Yes, the ones I plain to use are paint-on primers.

After reading your post, I took another look at the Zinsser (UK) website. There’s now a handy chart that lists which primers are best for which surface.

Paint Stick Markers

It turns out.some. of the products are good for more than one surface, while others are just better. That explains why I was seeing different primers for the same job. No wonder I was getting confused!

Can’t wait to get cracking now. Thanks again x. A couple of questions- I have a hope chest that was spray painted black. I just spray painted it with Rustoleum paint with primer in it. I don’t like it at all.

It feels gritty and dull and didn’t cover the black perfectly even after 2-3 coats. What should I do to prep it for chalk paint?Also- I like my furniture to feel smooth and have a slight sheen when done. Do I sand lightly after painting and then will a wax help with the finish? (or maybe I shouldn’t use chalk paint)Thanks!!

I do plan to distress it a bit at the end. I think chalk paint would be perfect for your project. If the existing finish is gritty, I would sand it before repainting. You don’t have to remove all the paint, just even out the finish and remove the gritty texture. You could try using a fine grit sanding block, or if you have a power sander I’d use that with a fine grit paper (maybe a 220 grit). Next paint with your choice of chalk paint, and if you like a slight sheen on on your finish, I would probably choose to seal it with a poly rather than wax.

I recently used CeCe Caldwell’s Endurance for the first time and really liked the finish. I also like General Finishes water based poly in Satin. Don’t be afraid to mix different brands of paint and sealers. I used the CeCe Caldwell’s Endurance over Annie Sloan paint. They all play nicely together.

You can use wax and buff it to get a sheen if you want to go the wax route, but based on the finish you’re describing I think my choice would be a poly. Also, make sure you’re sanding with a very fine grit (220 or 320) sanding block between coats of paint, and even mix a little water into your paint to thin it out if your goal is a smooth finish. Chalk paint is a bit thicker on it’s own and can leave brush marks if you don’t sand and/or water it down.

Oh and do your distressing before sealing it. I think I answered everything but if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to message me! Good luck with your project! I’ve never made my own but I have several friends who successfully make their own all the time. I know the girls who blog at 2 Bees In A Pod pretty well and if I were to try making my own chalk paint I’d try their recipe first. You can find it here: Just remember to mix the plaster of paris with water until it’s completely smooth before adding paint. If it’s not completely smooth your paint will end up gritty and it’s impossible to mix out the grittiness once you add paint.

I don’t know why I’m hesitant to make my own except I do a lot of work for other people and I’m afraid I’ll screw it up and the paint won’t hold up. I need to try it on a piece I intend to keep first so I can make sure it stays nice over time.Annie Sloan’s brand was the first chalk paint I ever used. It’s a great paint and I still love it and use it often but I’ve been branching out and trying different brands recently so I can pass on my thoughts and reviews to you guys.

Annie Sloan’s brand is on the more expensive end. Americana Decor is a great brand that’s a bit cheaper and you can find it pretty much anywhere. Valspar brand at Lowe’s is also cheaper but I’ve heard bad reviews from other painters (haven’t tried it myself).The poly sealer doesn’t have to be water based. You can use an oil based poly, just keep in mind an oil based sealer will eventually yellow over time. If you apply a water based poly appropriately it shouldn’t yellow. Hope that helps!! Why not buy buy Rustolen.

I’ve actually never painted that type of surface. Chalk paint sticks to most surfaces but like you noticed with one of your pieces, sometimes it just doesn’t. You can test the melamine surface by painting just a small section, let it dry then try scraping it with your fingernail. If the paint comes off really easily, you probably should prime it first.I’m glad you’re projects are going well!

I think it’s such a fun and easy paint to work with and it’s quite forgiving if you’re new. Good luck with your future projects!!

Hi Amy, These are great tips for prep when it becomes necessary. I’ve never tried Bondo before. My brother uses it on cars as he does bodywork for reprinting cars. Thank you for the detailed description about how to use it.

Here are my two cent tips to share1) Liquid Sander Deglosser is great for really slick surfaces and supper easy to use. Your paint will go a lot further if you use this product first over high gloss surfaces. It allows you to get more coverage in your first coat of paint by giving the surface some “tooth”. This will save paint, steps and time. So, instead of a third or maybe even four coats of paint, you can usually paint the normal two coats and maybe even just one coat. You just saturate a terry cloth towel or rag and wipe over the surface. It dries in 10 minutes or less and you are ready to paint.

It’s that easy! It is also a very good cleaner.2) Krud Kutter is great for removing a number of stubborn things like grease and oil. When all else fells, TSP is excellent for cleaning all unknown crud lurking on old furniture.3) The Paper Towel test I also use Zinnser’s Bullseye Shellac and their other primers that you mentioned (very good advice). To test whether or not you will get bleed through before painting, here is a simple test Dampen a paper towel and lay it on the surface and let it sit for about 20-30 minutes. If you get bleed through onto the paper towel, then you know you need to seal it before painting.3) One more tip I have used a lot of different paints on the market, ASCP included and it is a good paint. You asked about others to try and I would recommend Debi’s Design Diary DIY Paint made by Heirloom Traditions Paint, as well as, Heirloom Traditions.

Love this paint and it is a little less costly, as well! You can prime with shellac then paint with milk paint, and a poly is a stronger sealer in my opinion. I love General Finishes water-based top coat, and they even carry it in a flat finish, so while it doesn’t have the same pretty luster as a waxed piece, it’s not super shiny like some polys either. Any water-based poly would be great though.And I’m sure you already know this but you can’t poly over wax. Probably the easiest way to fix this would be to remove all the wax from the entire top with mineral spirits.

Lightly sand the damaged area, apply shellac if you think you need it, repaint the entire top so it looks even, then apply a few coats of poly. I think you could get away with just polying the top and not redoing the sides, unless you think the paint may peel in other areas too. If it’s peeling everywhere I’d sand the whole thing down and start from scratch but hopefully you won’t have to do that! Hi, thanks for the blog. I am a very conventional painter and knowing why we sand and clean a surface and being aware why paint does what it does, I have a hard time to believe that chalk paint can bypass prep work (if you want a durable coat that sticks for many years). Since most paints are now water based, you have to make sure that the surface you paint is not hydrophobic, so any greasy or silicone spots must be gone.

Paint only sticks to the surface right under it. So if that layer is in bad shape and starts flaking or loosening, your new coat comes off with it. That is one reason of sanding, to discover those weak spots that you will over look with quickly wiping a rag over a piece. However, sanding, by creating micro grooves in the surface, most of all increases the contact area with the paint, creating a much stronger bond.I am always following this subject, hoping to read why chalk paint (conventional paint mixed with plaster) should not need traditional prepping, but I haven’t found a satisfying answer yet.

Could you shed a light on the chemical and pshysical properties of this paint in comparrison to other paint, that would explain the difference? Thanks, Barry. Really liked your tips. Just got started 3 days ago and painted just about everything. If husband was not so busy I probably would have painted him as well. Painted and old office desk (laminated or Veneer as you guys in UK would say and disaster. I thought no prepping.

I spend so much time painting this table even did gold leave on it. When I start the waxing process I realized that the paint if coming of. Rush to the paint shop and bought water based sealer from plascon and tried a corner at the bottom.

Have to wait 48 hours but after 8 hours if you scratch if with your nails it leaves a mark. What to do, please help me. Yes, you can just spray the shellac right on the trouble spots. It dries fairly quickly, and I would do a couple coats. The next step is to paint again, but unfortunately you won’t be able to just touch up the paint.

It would look really obvious that you just painted those specific areas, so you’ll need to do a full coat or two over that entire section of the table. So if it’s just the table top, you’ll want to paint that entire surface after shellac. Hope that helps and thanks for pinning! So sorry I missed this question the first time! Yes, you can absolutely use chalk paint over enamel.

Is the existing paint job done well? No drip marks, peeling paint, etc? If so, you can likely just clean it well and start painting.

If the existing paint is sloppy and/or peeling I would recommend sanding it before re-painting. If you’re having any issues with your new paint adhering to the old paint, you want to either sand the existing paint off or prime it with something (I use Zinsser primers a lot and like them).

Sorry for the long answer! Every piece is different and some existing finishes don’t play nicely when you try to paint over them. My guess is you’ll just need to clean and start painting but hopefully this will give you some direction if you happen to have issues.

I would prime first. Mahogany doesn’t always bleed but it does often and to me it’s less of a headache just to prime it first. And yes, if you seal it with wax you will eventually have to re-wax it at some point. How often the furniture is used will determine how often you would have to re-wax the finish. You don’t have to seal chalk paint with wax and can use something else if you want. I rarely use wax because I’m not a fan of its minimal durability. I use general finishes water based top coat on most pieces I paint and really like it.

If you use something like that you won’t have to re-do the finish. Hope that helps:). I have 2 projects to ask about:1.

I sanded, wiped down, primed and painted with latex paint an old chair for my grandson for a lego table with black and bold colors. The Table did great but the chair peeled with every color used.

I didn’t use TSP, could have been my problem. Haven’t done many projects so now I am gun shy! Do I need to sand it all down again, TSP and repaint it? Are Chalk paints sealed with water bases poly durable for a child’s chair?2.

I found an old dresser for my granddaughter’s room. He mom would like me to paint it so she can paint her own designs on it. I chalk paint a good surface for her to paint on? Should she use darker colors of Chalk Paint for her designs over the base color? And seal it all with a water based poly?Thank you, your page has been helpful, I have never used Chalk Paint, but want to try it.Kathy Buser. I was just scanning through the comments here and realized I didn’t see your questions before now. You probably don’t need an answer anymore but I’ll just in case I’ll leave my thoughts.

On the table. TSP could make a difference. Twice I’ve come across a table that peeled and repelled paint no matter what I did to it. I finally sanded it really well, then primed and painted and it was fine.

Don’t be gun shy! Some pieces are just stubborn. Here’s what I would do: clean it well. Paint a little swatch of paint and let it dry, then scratch it with your fingernail.

Does it peel right off? If so I would sand the heck out of it. If it’s adhering well I would throw a coat of primer on it (just because it’s been such a problem up to this point) then paint it.For the dresser, I think that’s a really cool idea. Yes, chalk paint would be a fantastic surface for her. You can use darker chalk paint colors, but depending on what she wants to paint and how many colors she needs, that could get super expensive. You can actually buy those little tubes of acrylic paint at the craft store and she can use those to paint her design. I would definitely seal the dresser with a water based poly afterward, and the same sealer would be a good choice for the chair as well.

Hope that helps and I do apologize for the delayed response!! If you’re using chalk paint, you may not need to prime it at all. You can paint a little on then scratch the paint swatch when it’s dry.

If the paint adheres well, you probably don’t need to prime. If it peels up easily when you scratch it, you definitely need to prime and/or sand first.

You can absolutely use a white primer to cut the amount of paint coats you’ll need, regardless of whether it technically needs a primer or not. Ordinary household paint is also perfectly acceptable to use, but you will definitely need to prime if you go that route.

If the wood has any major scratches or imperfections you’ll want to sand those smooth before painting. If it has a super shiny surface it might be a good idea to run a sander over it quickly just to rough it up, but other than that you shouldn’t need to sand it before painting.

Hope that helps! Hi, Just found your site! This may have been “covered ” already (haha) But I wanted to ask a question.

I have painted over an old wooden table with Miss Lillians Chock paint and then applied the Satin luster coat and let it dry. Then I noticed some paint brush hairs in the finished table. So I picked them free and had a strip of table showing thru in several areas so I touched up the spots with chalk pain without even thinking about the flat spots on top of the satin finish. So now what do I do? Repaint the whole table with chalk paint then satin luster?

Or just put the satin stuff on top of the touched up spots? Should I sand it if I repaint it? I am kinda of afraid to proceed without advice.Thanks ahead of time.Debo. I’m sorry that happened! What a pain to be almost finished then have to keep working on it.

I’ve never worked with either of those products, but I’m going to assume the satin luster is something that can be painted over. It’s just about impossible to touch up paint over a top coat and make it look seamless. Did you just carefully paint in the tiny places where the brush hair was? If so, you might be able to throw a coat of sealer over it and it’ll be such a small imperfection that only you will notice it.

If you painted a small patch where the hair was, you’re probably going to have to re-paint the entire top. Assuming you can paint over the satin luster, I would just do another full coat of paint right over top then seal it again. Read the satin luster instructions though. You may have to wait for it to cure before painting or even remove it before painting. Fingers crossed you won’t have any more setbacks:).

Love your tips & info! I recently did a large farmhouse table & 6 Windsor chairs I. It was old & dirty & cleaned it with Murphys Oil Soap- great for the table top I stained however it wasn’t a good match for the chalk paint as I think this is causing the paint not to stick & it chips very easily.

Of course, this didn’t occur to me until after everything was painted. 🙁 So, would you strip them all the way back down & start over or sand & prime? A very sad commissioned job gone wrong. Live & learn.

If it were me I’d strip it all off and start over. If the base is unstable you really don’t want to put anything else on top of it until it’s fixed. I’d probably throw a coat of primer on it too once it’s stripped down just to be safe. The last thing you want to do is shortcut the repair and have it start chipping again after you finish it a second time. It stinks when something like that happens and you’re not alone- I’ve made mistakes like that too.

Just chalk it up as a learning experience and move forward. I’m sure it’ll be gorgeous when you’re finished with it:). You don’t need to sand first. Just wipe them down and dry them first. I used chalk paint on the inside of the door leading out to my garage about a year ago and it still looks great.

Don’t seal your doors with wax though. Use a water-based poly (I like General Finishes high performance top coat or Varathane crystal clear heavy use formula). And yes, you can use chalk paint on door frames, etc. Although if you’re doing a ton of doors, frames, baseboards, etc, you might be better off using latex paint. You will have to seal the chalk paint everywhere you use it.

It’s extremely porous and holds dirt/fingerprints. Hope that helps and good luck! I bought a dresser like 6 months ago to redo it for a changing table. (Prego w #3 and due in 2 weeks!) I bought Annie Sloan chalk paint thinking I couldn’t go wrong and cleaned it with simply green and wiped the whole thing down making sure there was no dust.

My husband sprayed on the paint and when it dried it bubbled and chipped off in some areas! So I got onto the Annie Sloan Q&A boards did some research and it said to sand down the bad areas and put a coat of shellac B-I-N primer on, wait until it dries and then paint back over it. So I did all this (being eight and a half months pregnant on my hands and knees lol) and hand painted over the areas after they had been sealed and dried and obviously all dust vacuumed and wiped off. This morning I woke up and the same thing happened!!!!!! In less areas but still some of the drawers and problem areas I had before!

Does Paint Stick To Shellac Nails

I’m at a loss and due in 2 weeks and running out of time & flexibility LOL have you ever had this issue before and what pointers could you give me?I’m so stressed!Thanks girl. Congrats on the new baby!!! How exciting! About the peeling dresser yes, I’ve had this happen once before and it’s a pain in the butt.

Same as you, even after priming it kept peeling. I had to sand it down to bare wood, re-prime it then paint. The trouble table is in my living room and it’s been perfect ever since. You have to REALLY give it a good sanding and get down past that first layer. I know not what you want to do this late in your pregnancy but hopefully husband can help. Out of all the pieces I’ve painted I’ve only had a peeling problem like this once, so it’s really not common and if you decide to paint another piece it’s unlikely you’ll deal with this again.

Wishing you lots of luck with everything!! As someone who is seriously getting the upcycling bug, these tips certainly help me, thank you so much. I have one question though. I am having trouble with a chair I am currently working on. It originally looks like its been painted black, I probably should have sanded them all down at first hindsight is wonderful.However I applied one coat yesterday and on applying the second coat today it seems like the paint is caking, and coming off in places (if that makes sense). Any tips on how I can sort this out would be grealy appreciated.

Hi Amy,I have purchased several planks of tongue & groove in order to make a bath panel. I was wondering if it would be possible to paint them with chalk paint?

Would I need to prime first? Once painted with chalk paint, would this need to be sealed to make the finish water resistant.

Does Latex Paint Stick To Shellac

I’m trying to complete the job as cheaply as I can ( or else I may as well have purchased a panel ). I don’t want to purchase primers, chalk paint and sealers ( very costly ) and then the paint starts to peel or bubble.Your advise would be very helpful.thanks. This is common with newer veneer pieces and usually needs to be primed for the paint to adhere properly. Definitely don’t sand it- you could just sand holes through the veneer layer. Try giving it a couple coats of primer, then paint, then seal. I like all the Zinsser brand primers.

If it’s a smallish piece you could use Zinsser bullseye shellac in a spray can. Super easy to use, dries really fast and it leaves a nice tooth for the paint to stick to. A brush on primer will work fine too. You’re right to hesitate before painting/sealing when the paint isn’t sticking correctly.

You have to fix the base problem before you continue with paint and sealer. Wishing you luck finishing your project!!

Hi Amy,What an awesome blog! I’m so happy I found it!!!I’ve purchased a hutch in a thrift store. It is dark stained wood. I’m not sure if it wood bleed and I can’t decide if i want to use chalk paint or flat latex paint mixed with calcium carbonate for diy chalk paint. Do you think if I used the diy chalk paint the wood would bleed through that too without the primer or shellac?Also what kind of sealer do you use (that is durable) on chalk paint that doesn’t take away from the chp chalky finish?

I think this piece is going to need more than a wax finish 😀Thank you. The paint shouldn’t be coming off when you apply the top coat.

It sounds like it’s possible you have an adhesion problem. Now that the top coat is on, does any of it seem like it could easily peel off? Try scratching it in a couple places. If the paint and top coat peel off pretty easily it’s usually an indication that the paint didn’t adhere to the wood for some reason. If that’s the case, it doesn’t matter how many layers you put on top because if the initial layer isn’t sticking to the wood none of them will. Does that make sense? So do the scratch test, if it passes then yes, you can throw another layer of paint right over the existing poly and poly again once it’s dry.

If the paint seems like it’s still pulling off easily you may need to consider sanding it all off and starting with a solid base. Hopefully it’s not an adhesion problem and you just need to do that extra coat of paint to clean it up! Hi, I recently noticed bleed through after my first coat of chalk paint. Can I just paint the Zinsser BIN straight over my first coat of chalk paint?

Have you done this before?I know Annie Sloan says in her website that you can paint shellac straight over chalk paint and it is a shellac based primer so I would assume it was OK. Only i emailed Zinsser and asked them I if could paint it straight over the chalk paint and they said I would have to remove it first! I did email back and told them what Annie recommends on her website but not had a reply since.I suppose I am just looking for someone who has done this and it has turned out OK!

I suspect Zinsser are being cautious? Thank you for all the tips, I have been using for forst time the primer Bin, beacuse for any reason the normal shellac didn’t work on my sanded nightstands and the bleeding tipically appeared after I applied the sealant varathane water base. Well I get this primer and then apply annie sloan paris grey on it and the chalk paint run out too easy.have been so difficult but also i know that the new formula of annie is terrible, after 3 to 4 coats to cover the primer! And then a apply my poly water base and the primer show again! Ahhh I paint all the time but this piece has been a nightmarehelp.

Sounds like it’s bleeding. You can put a primer right over the existing paint. Depending on how stubborn it is you might need a few coats.

Just paint a few coats of primer (I like the zinsser brand primers) give it a couple days to make sure the bleeding is stopped, then paint. A couple times I’ve have an extra stubborn bleeder that even the primer doesn’t hold. When that happens I add a coat of poly on top of the primer and that has always worked to stop the bleeding. Hope that helps! Email me if you’re still having problems with it.

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Surface PreparationAll surfaces must be clean, dry and free from anything that will interfere with the adhesion of the materials to be applied. Remove loose and failing material by scraping or by the use of a hot air stripper to a sound edge. Feather sound edges with a fine grade abrasive paper.

Prior to painting, the moisture content should not exceed 12%. Remove all dust.Remove all visible signs of organic growth and treat the areas with Zinsser Mould Killer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to dry.For any areas with remaining sound paint clean down with Zinsser Universal Cleaner & Degreaser to remove any contaminants. Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove all residues. Allow to dry. Degrease thoroughly with methylated spirit, changing cloths regularly.

Ensure all silicone polish/wax is removed. Fill any cracks and small surface defects with a suitable filler in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to dry. Rub down with a fine grade abrasive paper. Remove all dust.

PrimingPrime all areas to be decorated with one full coat of B-I-N® Primer Sealer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow a minimum drying time of 45 minutes in normal drying conditions. DecorationDecorate with two full coats of Perma-White® Interior Matt, Satin or Semi-Gloss in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow a minimum drying time of two hours between coats.Note: It is recommended to stripe coat edges to promote adhesion.